Pumpkin crops in Russia are in high demand, because they are rich in vitamins and minerals. Many gardeners plant vegetables in their beds. But growing pumpkins on the open ground has its own characteristics that you need to know about.
What varieties are suitable for growing pumpkins in the open ground?
In open ground, it is best to grow the following varieties:
- Muscat pumpkin. This category includes subsets Vitamin, Marble, Candied, Arbat, Pearl. The shape is round or cylindrical, the peel is soft, the color is deep orange. Nutmeg pumpkin has a long shelf life (2 years), excellent taste.
- Pumpkin culture is hard bark. The form is round-cylindrical, the color is orange, the taste is pleasantly sweet. A distinctive feature is a woody-hard outer shell (difficult to cut).
- Large-fruited pumpkin. Among this category, it is worth growing sub-grades Juno, Golosymyanka, Gribovskaya Bush, Freckle, Almond, Country. Features - high productivity, grain size, softness of the coating.
In open soil, you can try to grow any variety, since pumpkin is not whimsical and capricious. The main thing is to strictly follow agricultural regulations.
Terms
The plant is considered thermophilic, but does not present any special requirements, although it loves moist soil during flowering. This is due to the fact that in this period the root system begins to develop, which needs to be strengthened. If there is insufficient moisture, the ovaries will fall.
Being a “sunny” culture, pumpkin requires enough light. It does not tolerate strong winds and cold, so there should be a fence / building from the northern part of the garden.
Lighting
It is advisable to plant the crop in areas open to sunlight. This is almost the only plant that can easily tolerate direct sunlight, and for 6-8 hours. Despite this, slight shading is acceptable, so many gardeners condense corn crops.
Temperature
Pumpkin loves heat, so the optimum temperature can be considered indicators at +25 degrees. Features:
- if the temperature drops below + 8-10 degrees, the seeds do not germinate;
- at a temperature of + 15-20, germination occurs slowly;
- at a temperature of + 25-30 degrees, the seeds hatch in a couple of days.
Soil requirements
The soil for pumpkin crops should be saturated with humus, which will allow you to get tasty and aromatic fruits of high productivity. It is advisable to drain and fertilize the earth with compost. pH acidity should be 6-6.5. The upper soil layers must not be wet, and groundwater may pass through the lower ones.
If we talk about crop rotation, then the best predecessors are beans, cabbage (necessarily early) cabbage, onions, garlic. It is undesirable to plant pumpkin after tomatoes, carrots and cabbage of late varieties. Beets, greens, and cucumber are considered neutral. Pumpkin can be adjacent to beans, radish, beets, corn. It is forbidden to plant next to potatoes and tomatoes.
Soil preparation
Preparatory work begins in the fall, so think about a place for a pumpkin in advance. What you need to do: free the site from weeds and crops that grew this year, and prepare organic fertilizer. To do this, mix 60 grams of superphosphate, 30 grams of potassium chloride, 10 kg of humus (instead of it you can use 14 kg of manure). This amount should be enough for 2 square meters. m. Fertilizer is applied to the chill under plowing.
Coarse-grained sand or peat can be added together with organic matter to ensure friability. In very slightly acidic soil, the addition of wood ash is advisable. Digging is not required in spring, but weeds must be removed and the topsoil should be leveled with a rake.
Seedling method
In the southern regions of the country, you can plant seeds directly in the open ground. But for the northern latitudes, preference is given to the seedling method of growing pumpkin plants.
Checking and preparing seeds:
- Since pumpkin seeds are large, it is not difficult to check them. It is necessary to select complete elements for landing. If you do this once manually, the seed is soaked in water. Floated grains are considered unsuitable because they are empty.
- For quick germination, the seeds are immersed in water at a temperature not lower than 40 degrees, not higher than 50. Keep about 4 hours.
- After this time, the seeds are spread on moistened gauze (can be replaced with a piece of cotton cloth).
- The elements rolled into the fabric are placed in a container and left for germination in the room. So that the fabric does not dry out, it is moistened 1-2 times a day with warm water (room temperature).
- After the formation of sprouts, the wrapped seeds are transferred to the refrigerator (temperature +3 degrees). Withstand from 3 to 5 days.
Rules and terms of landing:
- It is recommended to plant seedlings in open ground at the age of 22 days. Therefore, depending on climatic conditions, if the seedlings are planted in open ground, for example, on May 25, the seeds are laid on May 3, if the transplant is planned for June 6, then the seeds are planted on May 15.
- If night frosts are expected within these periods, experienced gardeners and summer residents recommend arranging local greenhouses. For this, ordinary plastic bottles corresponding to the size of the seedling bush are used. After planting, the bush is covered with a bottle with a trimmed bottom, which is slightly deepened into the ground.
- Seeds should be planted in cups of peat. This is necessary due to the poor tolerance of transplant activities. The minimum cup size should be 10x10 cm.
- Seedlings - peat mixed with sand.
- Rules for planting hatching seeds: pour in an earthen substrate in a cup so that 3 cm remains from the top edge, pour water on top, lay the seed, add soil, moisten again.
- The first 3-4 days after seed planting, the air temperature should not be lower than 25 degrees. Further, the temperature can be reduced to + 18. After a week of growth, the temperature drops another 3 degrees. This is necessary for further adaptation of the plant to open air.
- In one cup, it is advisable to plant 2 seeds. During the germination of both grains, one sprout is removed by pinching at the root itself.
Top dressing and watering:
- Watering the plant is required regularly - the soil should not be dry and too wet.
- From top dressing, a solution of water and mullein in a ratio of 1:10 is preferred. Fertilizer should be applied 12-14 days after laying the seed material.
Seedling Banding carried out 10 days after planting seeds. During this period, the soil will sit down a bit, so you need to fill the pots with an additional substrate. Around the stem creates an additional layer in a circle.
Landing in open ground:
- Transplant seedlings should be in 21-22 days. By this period, three full-fledged leaflets with a rich green tone should form.
- Planting is carried out in rows in which holes are made with a depth of 30-35 cm.
- The distance between the rows is 40 cm.
- After creating the holes, fertilizer from potassium sulfate and superphosphate is laid on their bottom. Additionally, soil mixed with peat and wood ash is covered. Ordinary earth is sprinkled on top, after which watering is carried out (about 2 liters of water), seedlings are planted.
- Before planting, the bottom and the walls of the glass from peat are slightly cut.
Reckless method
The seedless method can be used mainly in the southern latitudes of the country.
Rules for planting seeds in open ground:
- Checking and preparing seeds is carried out in a similar way as in the seedling method. Namely - the seeds are sorted, soaked, germinated. But you can plant and sprouted grains.
- Sowing is carried out approximately on May 10-20, depending on climatic conditions.
- The temperature of the soil should correspond to indicators from +12 degrees.
- The distance between rows should be one and a half to two meters, between plants - 80-100 cm. Before sowing, dig holes and fill with fertilizers, as in the seedling method. After planting, watering is carried out.
The most common pumpkin cultivation methods:
- The classic way. The stems of the plant are located on the ground. Their direction is spontaneous, creeping.
- The tapestry method. Used for small varieties of pumpkin crops. During each row, wooden poles are installed, which are horizontally equipped with planks of wood. The wire in this case is not suitable, since it will not withstand the weight of the fruit. The height of the structure must reach 2 m. The distance between the plants is a maximum of 40 cm. During the cultivation, pinching and shaping, binding of the fruits and shoots to the supports and trellises is necessary. Many gardeners put a net on the fruit, which is conveniently fastened to the structure.
- On piles with compost. In the area allocated for planting pumpkins, compost piles are arranged in which small holes are made to fill the soil. Next, the seeds are sown. A prerequisite is to immediately cover with a film that is removed after the formation of the first shoots. Advantages - there is no need for additional nutrition during cultivation; absolutely any variety can be sown.
- The method according to Galina Kizima. This method is unique in that it is possible to grow pumpkins even in the northern regions in a non-seedling way. The basis is the digging of trenches, at the bottom of which plant residues are laid. It is they who create the temperature regime necessary for the plant. You need to dig trenches in the fall (depth corresponds to 2 shovel bayonets), vegetation is laid immediately, and in the beginning of spring it is sprinkled with soil. After germination of seedlings, a film cover is required until the required air temperature is stabilized. Pros - no need to fertilize.
Outdoor Pumpkin Care
Many summer residents believe that pumpkin plants do not need special care. Therefore, the only thing that is done after disembarkation is occasionally watered. However, in order to achieve maximum yield and high quality fruits (size, aroma, taste), it is important to follow certain agrotechnical rules and pay attention to this culture.
Watering
Irrigation should be done on a regular basis, as the pumpkin loves moisture. Despite the fact that the root system is quite powerful and extends to the sides and depths at a considerable distance, still surface roots must be irrigated.
In addition, the roots pump out moisture from the soil layers, which evaporates through the foliage, so there is practically no liquid in the root system and stems.
Irrigation Rules:
- Before and after emergence, up to the formation of a bush, it is necessary to water in small portions, but daily. Golden rule - water volumes increase gradually.
- The greatest amount of liquid is introduced during mass flowering and fruit formation.
- The amount and frequency of water introduced is determined by the particular pumpkin variety.
- Do not water the plant a few days before the full ripening of the fetus.
- The temperature of the liquid should not be below + 19-21 degrees. Cold water is completely ruled out, as the culture will perish.
- After irrigation, it is advisable to loosen at the very base of the main stem.
Mulching
This process is used by gardeners who often do not have the ability to water the garden (they rarely come to the cottage, there is no necessary amount of water, etc.). Mulching makes it possible for a long time to maintain the desired level of moisture in the soil.
How it is carried out: a special mulch is placed around the stem, due to which weeds do not additionally grow. The following materials are used as mulch (necessarily of natural origin, so that the soil "breathes" air):
- sawdust;
- needles from pine, spruce, fir, arborvitae and other conifers;
- peat;
- tops from other crops that are already harvested;
- weeds
- small branches of a tree (mixed with grass);
- foliage.
Loosening
Since the root system is sufficiently developed, an increased amount of oxygen is needed. To do this, the loosening method is applied, which is done after watering or a day after irrigation. When loosening, weeds break through at the same time.
Pollination
If pumpkin plants are not pollinated, the risk of rotting of the ovaries increases. Usually insects are engaged in pollination, but not everywhere they are enough, therefore, artificial pollination is used. What do we have to do:
- tear off a male flower;
- tear off the petals with neat movements (so as not to knock down pollen);
- touch pestles (anthers) to the female inflorescence.
The time of the procedure is before lunch. If it is not possible to make manual pollination using the above method, use a simple tip: prepare honey water, spray plants (female flowers).
Bush formation
The bush is formed without fail, as this makes it possible to get the best harvest. For this, 3 main methods are used:
- Method number 1. It is necessary to leave only the main stem, on which fruits grow in an amount from 2 to 3 pieces.
- Method number 2. Remains the main and one lateral stalk. The number on each process is 2 pumpkins.
- Method number 3. There are two shoots, the main stem is one. On each of them remains mainly one fruit.
It is important to pinch the point of further growth of the stems. For this, after the ovary of the fetus, 5 leaves must be counted. This is the point.
Top dressing
Pumpkin crops require organic and mineral fertilizers, which increases yield, prevents the development of diseases. The need for nutrition is due to the fact that the plant has too large fruits, which is why it requires a large amount of useful nutrients.
Fertilization dates:
- the first time top dressing is carried out after the formation of five sheets;
- the second time - with the formation of lashes;
- the third and subsequent times - every 14-15 days.
What you can feed:
- a solution of slurry and water (ratio 1:10), the initial flow rate for 6 plants is 10 liters of liquid, the further flow rate for the same number of plants is 2 buckets;
- nitrophoska (for the first time 10 grams of the drug is used per plant, then another 5 grams are added to this dose);
- wood ash is required (1 glass per bush);
- mullein solution, minerals (phosphorus, potassium, etc.), industrial fertilizers of a simple, complex and mixed type.
Lash powder
If you do not sprinkle, then the leaves, ovaries and lashes will break off under the negative influence of precipitation, wind, and mechanical actions. Another advantage of the method is especially noteworthy - when covering the lashes with soil, an additional root system develops, which draws moisture and nutrients from the soil, which contributes to the plant’s food.
How to sprinkle:
- dusting time - reaching one meter with lashes;
- unravel the elements;
- spread on the ground in a given direction;
- sprinkle each whip with soil in 2-3 places.
How to deal with diseases and pests?
Pumpkin is not very susceptible to disease and insect attack, but there is a risk if preventive measures are not followed.
Powdery mildew
This is the most common pumpkin disease. It manifests itself in an abundant whitish coating on the leaf part of the plant. As it progresses, it spreads to stems, lashes, fruits. As a prophylaxis, excessive thickening should not be allowed, it is necessary to water mainly with warm water and timely pull out the grass.
You can get rid of powdery mildew with the help of chemicals - Strobi, Topaz. The drug is applied no later than 20 days before harvesting, on the aerial part and soil. Be sure to remove the affected areas.
Fruit rot
Pumpkin varieties undergo different types of rot:
- White characterized by decay of a half-ripened and ripened fetus. Signs: initially a white coating forms, which acquires a putrefactive structure. The pumpkin peel is affected, after which the rot spreads inward. To combat the plant is treated with a solution of copper sulfate. Be sure to remove the decayed part. In order to prevent the disease, it is necessary to clean the area of weeds, even those that are already plucked (deposits).
- Root rot is localized on the root system and stem. Symptom - a touch of brown shade. You can cure the plant by adding to the root part of the dry soil. Prevention: eliminate high humidity (do not fill the plant too abundantly).
- Black differs in the formation of spots of gray-whitish color, on which there is a black coating. Place of defeat - fruits, stems, leaves. Since the cause of the disease is the transmission of infection by insects, wind and tools, it is necessary to remove affected areas of plants in a timely manner, to disinfect the soil.
- Gray rot occurs against a background of fungal infection. It appears on the ovaries with a watery-gray plaque of a mold-like type. The spots are covered with conidiophores and small sclerotia of a black shade. Treatment: application of paste from copper sulfate to sore spots. As preventive measures, it is forbidden to overmoisten the soil and thicken the plants.
Mosaic
The disease refers to the viral etiology of origin, leading to serious pathological changes. The leaves, ovaries and fruits are affected.
A sign is the coating of the affected areas with a dotted pattern of a mosaic type, the color of which varies from light to dark green. The leaves undergo drying and twisting, the surface of the fruit acquires a relief.
Infected pumpkin mosaic virus is forbidden. To prevent infection, it is necessary to get rid of weeds, remove the affected plants, and then burn in the fire.
Other diseases
Other pests, insects and diseases:
- Bacteriosis. It is manifested by the formation of brown spots on the leaf part of the plant. It spreads quickly among crops, but rarely affects pumpkin. Treatment involves the removal of affected elements.
- Spider mite localized on the stems and below the leaves. It can be recognized by the presence of cobwebs. At home, they spray with tinctures of garlic or onions.
- Aphids sometimes affects pumpkin crops. The insect from weeds spreads, so they need to be pulled out in a timely manner. The aphid meeting place is the lower part of the leaves, which curl after the lesion.
- Scoop caterpillars. Pests feed on stems, leaves and fruits, so the plant quickly dies. To prevent their occurrence, it is necessary to dig up the garden, destroy weeds and sprinkle whips.
- Peronosporosis - powdery mildew. Signs: yellow dried spots, violet-gray coating. Methods of control: Carcocide, Cuproxate, Copper oxychloride. Prevention: seed and soil disinfection.
- Slug. The presence of the pest can be recognized by damage to the leaves on which holes are formed, strips of silver tint. How to get rid of: spray the plant with Creocide, set traps (watermelon peels, moistened rags, cabbage leaves).
- Anthracnose. The stem and leaf part are affected - there is a pink coating, a hole, an indentation. Bordeaux fluid is used for fighting.
- Larvae of the sprout fly. It is the larvae that destroy pumpkin sprouts and seeds. In order to prevent this, the treatment of the seed material with the preparation Fentyuram or other insecticidal agents is mandatory.
- The beetle is a nutcracker or wireworm. A completely harmless insect for pumpkin, but only in adulthood. The danger is larvae that destroy seedlings and root. The larva is collected manually, the soil is treated with Bezudin.
Almost all insects can be fought with a soap solution (1 bucket of household brown soap per bucket of water). In many cases, helps Karbofos, diluted with water (10 l 50-60 grams).
Harvesting
Pumpkin harvesting time depends on climatic conditions, summer weather, variety, planting time, so there are no specific criteria. The average maturity is 3-3.5 months.
How to determine the ripeness of a pumpkin?
To understand exactly when you need to collect the pumpkin, you need to know the ripeness indicators:
- The leaf part begins to dry out and turn pale (the bright color disappears).
- The fruits are saturated in orange.
- Pumpkin peel becomes harder.
- The peduncle becomes stiff and dry.
Pumpkin picking
In order for the pumpkin to be stored for a long time, it is necessary to collect it correctly. What rules to follow:
- the weather should be sunny and dry;
- the fruit breaks with the peduncle;
- the length of the dry stalk should not be less than 4 cm;
- after collecting, the pumpkins are placed in a room with a room temperature (it is important to ensure that the room is dry);
- drying lasts 3 days, after which the fruits are transferred to a permanent place of storage.
Storage rules
Shelf life of pumpkins depends on the variety. For example, early pumpkins cannot be stored for more than a month, mid-season ones retain their qualities for one and a half to three months, later species are stored for up to 4 months, but there are varieties that can be kept for up to 2 years.
Storage Features:
- keep pumpkin crops for a long time in a cool, dark and dry room;
- air temperature - 2-7 degrees;
- place - cellar, basement, warehouse, storage room;
- Before laying, each fruit is carefully inspected for damage - holes, scratches and other peel defects should not be allowed.
Pumpkin is a “patient” and unpretentious plant, but without proper care it is impossible to get a decent level of yield and quality of fruits. Therefore, if you decide to engage in the cultivation of pumpkin crops, be sure to study all the requirements and criteria. If necessary, consult with more experienced gardeners or agronomists.
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